Cool designers

We all have our favorite designers, and there are many established/timeless ones that achieved an iconic status. I mean, who haven't heard of YSL, Chanel, Dior, Versace, Armani... the list goes on. However, there are many others besides the really big names who are developing or have developed a unique esthetic, a recognizable sensibility -- things one can build one's style around. When it comes to building and developing style, I think it is important to identify specific designers/labels that appeal to you, as well as particular pieces that either embody this individual esthetic or at the very least punctuate it.

So here's my Top 12 list (in no particular order), pieces by established and emerging designers I happen to particularly like. I limited myself to pieces that are available for sale. This is where to find them: Mick Margo (Rachel Comey), Rewind (Steve J& Yoni P, Vivienne Westwood), Revolve (Charlotte Ronson), Shopbop (T by Alexander Wang, Derek Lam, Catherine Malandrino, rag&bone, See by Chloe, Diane von Furstenberg), Net-a-Porter (Sonia by Sonia Rykiel) and Neiman Marcus (3.1 Phillip Lim).

This fall I'm really drawn to charcoal grays, paired with black and white, an an occasional colorful piece. This Sonia by Sonia Rykiel dress is cozy, warm and classic. The fabric also looks quite drapey and nice, while maintaining a well-shaped silhouette.



The trademark heart, albeit cutesy, gives it a recognizable twist.

The next dress (T by Alexander Wang) is a basic -- a dress or a tunic, with a slouchy, slinky cut. It is made of rayon, which is thinner than cotton and drapes better, making it ideal for layering. It would look amazing with a long jacket and leggings or skinny jeans, and nice heels.




Speaking of heels:



Marcy clog by Rachel Comey looks so comfy, with its thick platform and chunky heel. Combines the appeal of the shoe with the comfort of a clog, and the wonderful twist on the familiar that is fresh and wearable that I associate with Rachel Comey.

Fall is my favorite time of year, partially because of jackets. I love jackets, and would wear them every day if it wasn't for the ridiculous New Jersey summers. This little bomber by Charlotte Ronson is adorable and basic, and goes with everything:



On the other hand, this jacket (Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania) is very idiosyncratic, with its distinctive sleeves and cut. This is something I would wear forever, because it is a) amazing and b) tweed. Yes, I love tweed, because I'm secretly a British schoolmarm at heart. A schoolmarm who would wear this:



Possibly with these granny boots by Diane von Furstenberg:



Another favorite piece of clothing is a pencil skirt. I'm crazy about them because they are comfortable, look amazing on just about everyone, and a good designer can easily turn one from a basic into an art piece. Consider this one by Derek Lam:



Not only it is classic and beautiful, it gets bonus points for being tweed. On a dressier side, here's one from rag&bone:



Now, blouses. I'm especially taken with this one (See by Chloe) because of an interesting ruffle placement:



And SteveJ&YoniP make me instantly like pink:



The pleating and draping on it is just amazing, and the smocked back offers this amazingly soft yet fitted silhouette. I mean, LOVE.

And finally, dressy dresses, something for evening/special occasion wear. Phillip Lim and Catherine Malandrino have both consistently provided great great collections, very traditionally feminine and yet always with an interesting twist. Yet, both are very distinctive, and these are probably the two designers I get most enthusiastic about. First, Malandrino:



Beautiful draping and very flattering neckline, a simple silhouette with great color.

Now, Lim:



Check out the gathering and the ruching, as well as the asymmetrical cut. Just amazing dress, in beautiful gray.

Eleven Minutes

Eleven Minutes (directed by Michael Selditch, Robert Tate) is a 2008 documentary about Project Runway Season 1 winner, Jay McCarroll, preparing his first collection to be shown in NY Fashion Week. What an interesting film! It played on Style channel this afternoon, and I can't believe I haven't seen it until today. What a fascinating look into the heart of fashion industry, and at how TV fame translates into success in a real world.

Jay McCarroll is a very talented designer, and I loved the collection -- it was themed largely around hot air balloons (and other things, but mostly balloons), as can be seen in this top:



Balloons also pervaded the show's color palette, from blues to yellows to reds:



But pretty clothes were only a small bit of the story -- I got some real appreciation of how much goes into putting a fashion show together, how much work; Jay was propped largely by volunteer labor of his friends, and their dedication (despite the occasionally flaring tempers). There was some backing from Humane Society and a strong anti-fur message; thumbs up on that! Then there was the casual racism and misogyny of the fashion insiders. Then there was the difficulty that went into not only launching the show (for those who'd forgotten, Jay turned down Project Runway money because of a really horrible contract clause) and the uncertainty of any results even if the show is successful -- behold the meeting with Urban Outfitters and the consequent falling through of the deal.

I was really amazed at the role of buyers -- and I really shouldn't be, because it is the same with publishing. The interest from the B&N and Borders buyers often determines the print run of a book, and if chains do not order, it is a real disaster. Buyers appear to wield a lot of power in fashion as well, and that was quite eye-opening. Just to think that someone can spend so much money and effort and heartache and it still may come to nothing if buyers are not impressed. Stuff nightmares are made of, this.

As moody and often cranky (understandably) as Jay was throughout the documentary, one thing really drew my attention: how important it was for him to stop being a TV reality person and to become a bona fide fashion designer. And with all the setbacks and annoyances, that seemed to be the yardstick by which he measured his achievement. I was sad that the collection didn't make it to UO; then again, a few pieces sold on QVC apparently, and McCarroll has an online boutique now. But I hope he has another fashion show soon -- with color and neat shapes and fantastic silhouettes, retro and modern. And, I hope, with more balloons.

Back to school shopping

Sure sure, most normal people get over the whole back to school thing by their mid-twenties (for themselves, at least.) I, however, work in academia, which prolongs the excitement all the way to retirement. And it seems like such a good time to update one's wardrobe with a few basics! So, these are the things on my list -- or they would be if I had an unlimited budget. As is, it's a mix of needs and wants.

1) Tights -- nothing is better for reviving the wardrobe on the cheap. Cheap and colorful can always be found at Hue. For more fancy options, Sockdreams are a reliable favorite. For unusual and a tad more pricey, nothing beats Vivienne Westwood tights, which are notoriously difficult to track down. Thankfully, there's Matsu Ladies that carries a great selection of those. Like these, for example:



Worth every penny!

2) Layering basics. T-shirts and tanktops are always welcome, and places like Target etc stock a good range of cheap options. If, however, one feels like spending $20 on a T-shirt, one should try Royalton -- extra-soft, very slinky, do not add bulk, and their organic sea cotton is whispery and is like nothing in the world.

3) Actual clothes.


This skirt from Martin+Osa is a steal, and it is perfect for my wardrobe. They have a bunch of other nice things for sale, too. A great place for low-key basics, including cardigans.

I already rhapsodized Victoria's Secret fall line, and there are a few pieces I am loving. This scoopneck sweater is beautiful but probably unrealistic. This leather jacket, however, looks like something I can get tons of mileage out of:



4) A bag.


I splurged on this from Blowfish. It fits everything I need, plus whatever student papers I need to bring home and back. It also comes in three different colors; I went with yellow because this fall I'm planning on the overall black-white-grey scheme with bright yellows and blues and purples.

5) Boots.

I really want these from Blowfish (I seem to develop a great affinity to Blowfish). They are simultaneously classic, weird, slouchy, funky and go with everything. I would wear them with jeans or pencil skirts, no question.

So, is there anything you're considering for fall?

WFA Nomination

Paper Cities: An Anthology of Urban Fantasy I edited was nominated for a World Fantasy Award. Many congrats to the publisher, Matt Kressel of Senses Five Press, and all the contributors.

New anthology: RUNNING WITH THE PACK

I'm editing an anthology for Prime, called RUNNING WITH THE PACK. It is an anthology of urban fantasy focused on werewolves, and I am still looking for reprint suggestions. Email or leave comments.

Details

So recently I was thinking about importance of details in both fiction and clothing design. I guess it could be said about just any art, but these two have been on my mind lately.

Just reading work by the beginning writers, one notices that very frequently there's lack of texture -- that is, the details that would make story alive and interesting are not there. There are houses instead of, say, three story brownstones, and the protagonists get into cars instead of beat up hutchbacks with busted shocks. Everything is so vague and generic that there's nothing for the reader's mind to catch onto, words and sentence slide in and out meaningless, impressionless. Details not only give the fiction the sense of veracity, but also texture -- that variation between the piercing and soft, rough and smooth -- that makes any story worth reading.

Now, texture of course is very important in clothing. Textile arts, for example are pretty much entirely dedicated to texture and patterns, as can be seen here:



This is a shawl made by Vilte, a Lithuanian fiber artist who employs a unique felting technique to create this incredible detailed landscapes, using only one color. This is what texture does. And in fiction, one has to create texture with words -- that is, by definition, a very uniform medium. So the variation in texture -- syntax, sentence length, etc. is necessary to make the work interesting.

And I know I've been talking a lot about designer wear, and what makes it different. Attention to detail is what sets apart really special items of clothing, and designers who become famous do just that. For example, take this simple woolen shirt by Catherine Malandrino:



What makes it truly amazing is the sleeve detail, enlarged here:



The ruching there is just exquisite, and it's a small detail that makes this piece so different from everything else. Lesson for a fiction writer: a single embellishment may have a great impact.

Same idea here, on this Olga Kapustina's skirt: very simple silhouette, but notice the stitching on the waist:



Now look at this coat by Alexander Wang:



It's a woolen peacoat that drapes absolutely beautifully. The appeal here is in unexpected combination of a traditionally coat-like silhouette with a more sweater fabric. This little jolt of unexpected elevates both items of clothing and short stories above the average. A beautiful shape is a must. (mickmargo.com)

Embellishments in both fiction and design can get excessive, and in both cases the lavish decorations might work. For example, a blouse by Anna Sui:




Lots of lace and pleating and a bow. It works because the details, even though abundant, are not slapped on randomly but rather are very intentional:



Notice the curving edge of the lace, and how accurately it is fitted. (BTW, this blouse is being sold on ebay as we speak. Just saying.)

On the opposite end, something very spare can be very beautiful -- your simple prose equivalent:



This dress by Ports 1961 is very simply and cleanly cut, but also it has this cowl on the back:



(mickmargo.com)

Now, this is important for writers too: not all the work you've put into something should be out there, slapping the reader in the face. Some things will be subtle, visible only from certain angles, and yet it is those underpinnings, this almost-hidden craftsmanship that makes the whole hang together.

And some details remain hidden entirely, only to be discovered once one gets very close to a particular item. In fiction, we call them Easter eggs -- little unexpected surprises, inside jokes for those who are paying attention. You can get the same in clothing -- Betsey Johnson's work is a great example of little hidden images. This is what's on the lining of one of her raincoats:

The Fashion Show post-mortem

Well, I am pleased that Anna has won. I was a fan since show 2 and the pleated pencil skirt (to be fair, I am such a sucker for pencil skirts), and I was happy to see her get her due. A few pieces from the final collection are being sold on Bravo website, except that the dress I loved last week isn't there. Not that I would actually buy it, but I'm surprised that it was overlooked.

I was a bit sad for James-Paul, who is adorkable. I also loved him when he said that there's plenty of time to make sensible wearable clothes, but the runway show was his one chance to show his vision. I have a lot of respect for his integrity; I also liked how he resisted being molded, and that he was very explicit about how his cultural heritage and being a PoC affected his aesthetic sensibility. I sincerely hope that Comme des Garcons hires him. It's the house that comes to mind in terms of fitting his sensibilities without demanding a compromise. This is what I mean:




The rest of Fall 2009 RTW collection -- seriously, take a gander. Monochromatic and beautiful.

I was frankly surprised that Daniella was the judges' choices. I mean, I understand why -- she is young, she's on trend, and her clothes could be sold at Forever 21 tomorrow. And the show was supposed to be about wearability and daily utility (incidentally, this why it's not Project Runway -- totally different point). Still, while Anna stuff was beautifully constructed and pretty and fun and James-Paul's was just interesting and genius, Daniella's was neither. It was all right. She did a lot of shoulder pads, and she's 22 -- too young to actually remember the eighties. I don't think anyone who does could wear shoulder pads non-ironically. I guess at a show like that I want to see people either bucking the trend or inventing their own, not catering to the most recent and the most uninspired.

Overall, I enjoyed this season and I hope they come back. I also hope that they will learn not to make fun of people with accents. Seriously, Isaac Mizrahi.

Cover for the Czech edition of TSHoM

The Czech edition of The Secret History of Moscow now has a cover. Isn't it pretty?

Custom Jeans

About a month ago, I learned about free jeans for bloggers campaign by a startup company, Thimbler. I sent my URL, because hey, free jeans! Plus, they are custom-made. I was curious to see how much difference would custom fit make. Luckily, they accepted my bid and I headed to the website, to order jeans.

First, the website is awesome. Easy to navigate, it has a great plus-size section with a model who is actually plus-sized (bonus!) She is also a regular contributor to the company blog. Overall, the site gave the impression of being very friendly to plus-sized population, and they have a small but lovely selection of custom items. Also, 20% off right now! Just saying.

Anyway, jeans. The interface was quite user-friendly – you select your style and wash (I went with straight leg, dark wash) and then head over to the customization page. You enter some measurements (waist, hip, thigh, inseam/outseam) into provided boxes. Bonus: when you click on each box, it tells you how and where to measure, without a need for separate instructions page. I loved this little feature. After the measurements, you get to select fit – such as your hip shape (apple, pear, straight, hourglass), belly shape (flat, rounded, etc) and butt shape (flat, average... you get the idea). They also have little pictures for every descriptor, so selecting the right one is easy. Very well thought-out system, allegedly based on scans of 10,000 actual bodies. Yay technology!

I ordered the jeans July 1st and received them July 20th – not a bad lag. And the jeans are great. They have a really nicely designed waistband that doesn't gap on the back, made of good quality very soft medium weight denim with just a bit of stretch. These jeans fit me like a glove. Seriously, the most comfortable pair of jeans I ever owned. They look great too -- see for yourselves:



Another cool thing is that they put your name on the tag. It cracked me up because it reminded me of kindergarten, but it is kinda cool. Also, notice the button and stitching (click to embiggen):



Overall, awesome jeans. I don't own many pairs (three altogether), but whenever I need another one, I'll be ordering from Thimbler. They are cheaper than most designer jeans, they are made just for you, and made really really well. What's not to love?

Oh Etsy, I love you so.

I really do. Besides vintage shirts and affordable jewelry, Etsy is an amazing place to discover wonderful new designers. Which, of course, leads to coveting things, and since actual shopping is out of the question for the moment, I'll settle for the next best thing: posting about the things I'm currently drooling over and genius people who designed them. In no particular order:



A beautiful dress by Layla (LedThread), who makes such simple and beautiful pieces. Unique hems and fluid simple grace make her work so appealing, and make sure to check out the obi belts.

On the other hand, Prizy Sebastian's cotton tank is all about elaborate and very feminine ruffles. The rest of Prizy's pieces are also nicely detailed -- I'm such a sucker for pleats and pintucks, and there's plenty of that.



I first learned about Holly Stalder's designs from Painfully Hip, and was absolutely taken with flowy ruffly shapes and exaggerated sleeves and backless dresses. She also carries more affordable ready-made pieces, such as this little tank embellished with pretty lace. It's a brilliant example of a simple basic item made unique by a talented designer with a great eye for detail.



This shirt/jacket by Lindsay Weatherread is so beautiful I cannot wait to get my hands on it. Seriously, I promised myself this shirt when I sell another book. Just look at it:



It's a piece of art, and it doesn't look too overdone when you wear it. How cool is that? Also, check out the pleating on the sleeves, it is so precise and well done.

The last item of clothing is a jacket made by Idea2Life. I just love the cut of this jacket, the combination of something very flowy and unstructured with crisp, precise pleats. It's such a perfect fall piece; added bonus -- no fussing trying to guess your size.



Finally, a bag. I don't really have any statement bags, mine are all brown and functional (except a clutch or two), but this one I just adore. I love the cut and the texture of it, love the braided handle with the bow. Love that it comes in a bigger size and different color combinations. It's made my Andrea (of Amarie), who is apparently a genius in coming up with irresistible textures and shapes.



Most importantly, these six things exemplify the very idea of a designer items: they all show a singular sensibility, and there's something unexpected about every single one of them, be it the intricate detailing or a very simple silhouette done with amazing craftsmanship. You can't find things like these anywhere else, and this is really it: designer items are not about labels or price points but rather about artistic vision executed with quality. I'm excited about Alexander Wang's latest collection because I know it'll delight and surprise in a way that Forever21 simply can't. And Etsy is an amazing place to look for passion and workmanship of the up-and-coming artists and to sample their vision before they become too famous.

And these are my top six things from Etsy! Do you have a favorite Etsy designer? Link in comments, I love gaping at all the talent that can be found there.

Things

Just when I'm about to quit writing forever, something nice like this happens. (Thanks to Jennifer Jackson, Awesome Agent, for the heads-up). Yay!

Also, The Fashion Show tonight was surprising. Reco did not deserve to be kicked off, the feathered dress notwithstanding (seriously, the thing looked like a giant lobelia. Sort of like this one:


)

Except, you know, colorful. Still, he didn't deserve to go. Daniella's clothes, on the other hand, although not terrible, were poorly constructed and fitted. Not my thing.

Anna's stuff was awesome as usual, especially one floral dress. It's #4 here.

I do feel that she was maybe repeating a bit, but I appreciate the sense of retrospective. As always, great details, amazingly well-made. If I had to summarize Anna's designs in one word, it would be: PLEEEAAATS!!!! Team Anna all the way.

Finally, James-Paul: awesome awesome coats. Monochromatic but experimental and textured and amazingly made. The theme was a bit dicey: use of western clothing by non-Western peoples, and the shift in function inherent in such adaptation. I dug the idea as well as the skirt/sack/veil thingie. Wasn't thrilled about animal bones though. Srsly, James-Paul.

Credit where credit is due

It occurred to me that I rarely give public thanks, and it's probably worthwhile to remedy this situation. So, my first public thanks go to Dave Paretti of Olly Paretti and Son (Waterford, NJ) who recently redid our kitchen tile and did a beautiful job. Here's the floor:



Backsplash behind the stove:



You can also see the travertine backsplash next to it. So, if you're in South Jersey/Philly area and need some tile work done, Dave is the man to go to. He's a true craftsman who does a wonderful job. No matter what HGTV tells you, it takes a long time to become this good at laying tile. Also, many thanks to Al Franchetti, our general contractor.

Friday bits

Attila after a thorough flower inspection:



And my b-day gift:




Meanwhile, The Fashion Show is down to the final four: Anna, James-Paul, Daniella and Reco. By all rights Anna should win this, but I worry a little that since selecting the winner is left to the voters. James-Paul probably doesn't have a chance because he's so idiosyncratic.

Daniella surprised me this week -- a beautifully designed dress. And Anna's pattern choice was a little disappointing for me. I mean, I dig a floral. Giant cabbage roses bigger than the model's head -- not so much. Also, Reco's purple-and-pink chiffon number was NOT better than James-Paul's.

So, James-Paul. He was roundly criticized for his dress, but I liked it. I liked the skirt and the stiff structured bits lined with champaign silk. Black velvet I wasn't crazy about, and the neckline of that dress would've been so much better if he made it a V instead of round, with some pleats or gathers at the bust or shoulder.

Finally, Johnny who was kicked off for basically ripping off someone else's design (and then blaming his helper for not stopping him -- classy!) The only time he won a challenge was when they were paying homage and he created a convincing Versace tribute. I'm surprised that he lasted this long, given lack of a singular vision. I mean, I may not normally like Reco's designs, but the man has an identifiable style. Johnny doesn't. Daniella didn't before, but she is starting to develop into something interesting -- I'm actually looking forward to her final collection.

So yeah, The Fashion Show is certainly a lot less flamboyant than Project Runway, but I've grown attached to it. Mizrahi remains awesome.

Meet my mom, the risk-taker

My mom just vacationed in Indonesia, together with my sister. Apparently, awesome time was had by all (with a possible exception of one lizard and one elephant.)

Here's mom and a giant lizard, making an uneasy but sweet acquaintance:



My mom trusts my sister, even to the point of tottering elephants, flimsy-looking footholds, and water of unknown depth. What can possibly go wrong?



Then several birds tried to carry her off:




While other birds looked on:




Notice the red eye on that last one.

Apparently, best vacation ever!