Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Picture post

My mom grows all sorts of amazing plants on her balcony and windowsill -- despite it being December in Moscow. Right now she has a lemon in fruit Here're a few pictures of her bounty:







She also collects frogs:

Monday, December 21, 2009

Things I've learned while traveling in the snow

1. No one will mind that the flight is delayed if it's because the maintenance crew is reattaching some plane part that fell off. Sure, delay away!

2. One inch of snow is enough to incapacitate the Amsterdam airpot. To be fair, there was also poor visibility -- maybe this is why half of people on my flight had their luggage lost.

3. Yes, mine is missing too. They promise to get it to me tomorow night or the day after tomorrow morning.

4. Two delayed flight make for not missing connections. It is possible to sprint from teminal G to terminal D in Schiphol in under five minutes. Just to sit at the gate for two hours.

5. Where the cars fail, very small fathers succeed. There was a snow storm in Moscow too, with traffic at the standstill. Public transportation worked.

6. Taking a train, subway, and a bus to get home from the airport is much easier if the airline has thoughtfully lost your luggage.

7. After being awake for 31 hours, jetlag will ensure that you will wake up at 3 am after three hours of sleep. Humans have not yet evolved to deal with air travel.

8. Moscow is the most beautiful city in the world, snow storms or not.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Tomorrow

Weather permitting, I'm leaving tomorrow. I haven't been home for the holidays in way too long, and even though I'm sad to abandon the better half and the cats, I can hardly contain my excitement. I'm bearing gifts, I cannot wait to see my parents and sister, and to just sir in the kitchen and talk late into the night (once the jetlag subsides, that is.) There might be a small artificial tree involved. And cake -- oh, cake and chocolate... you have no idea how much I miss good chocolate.

I also want to see how much the city has changed in the past four years -- it's always a little sad to realize how quickly it moves on without me, and becomes a fractured mosaic of things familiar and new. I want to take pictures of snow and stray dogs, of street fashions and architecture; instead, I'm most likely to hang out with the family and work on my golden age of Hollywood novel (tentative title: The Story of Billy Wong, an Actor). I always feel more inclined to write about places that are far away -- it's the melancholy and the absence that drive me. Incidentally, both in Moscow and in NJ I live where I can hear the trains; they wake me up every night. I much prefer them to planes (stupid Atlantic).

I also want to get my hands on as many versions of various European Vogues as I can. Who knows? Maybe in their totality they will reveal something profound; barring that, expect cultural and fashion analysis. I expect to have email access and the regular social media channels. I will be back in NJ January 5th, as long as there are no sudden strikes, disasters, upheavals, and bureaucratic obstacles.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Apex Poll

Apex Magazine is running an online poll for the best story they published. Read some free fiction and vote!

Saturday, December 12, 2009

20 best SF books

io9 put together the list of what they found to be twenty best SF books of the decade. I'm flabbergasted to be included. Thanks, io9!

Thursday, December 10, 2009

LML and a palate cleanser

OK, so Launch My Line is a fascinating train wreck. I won't even talk about clothes -- there was nothing on the runway last night that I really liked. The blue kimono and the orange dress were ok; the wool one-piece bathing suit ("but you can't go swimming in it", according to the creator) was probably the main atrocity committed. Rest easy though -- the architect responsible for it was sent home.

Thankfully, the rest of the show compensates for lack of interesting fashion. Patrick the fashion writer's outfits are more interesting that runway, that's for sure. By gum, that man has style and flair! It remains to be seen how that'll translate into designing women's fashion, especially since his expert is a tad mercurial, to put it mildly.

The experts (aka the actual designers, not "designers" who are trying to launch their line despite their inability to sew on a button) are starting to get testy about the "designers", who carry on about creative process and treat their experts like seamstresses. The experts roll their eyes and point out that this is not a sleeve, this is a neckline. One expert complains that her designer knows nothing about fabrics and how they work. For me, this seemed like the main challenge from the beginning: I sew very little, just enough to realize that I don't know enough about construction to be able to translate a flight of fancy into an actual garment.

Another precious moment from last night: the music mogul who feels that he has an edge in the fashion world because, and I almost quote, he knows what men find attractive. Because all these million dollar runways twice a year? All an attempt to lure straight men, fashion's raison d'etre. Dear music person: you seem like a nice enough guy, but if fashion was about straight men preferences, there would be nothing but short skirts and tight jeans on the runway. Couture labels would cease to exist. Alexander McQueen doesn't do alien shoes because he can't quite grasp what it is the straight guys WANT. Comme des Garcons... well, you get my drift. Believe it or not, women might occasionally get up in the morning and dress to please themselves rather than encourage maximum leering on the subway. Just FYI.

And I leave you with Simon Doonan providing more wit and entertainment in just over two minutes than the entire season of any fashion show:

Saturday, December 05, 2009

Well, that was a first

Someone recently emailed me asking if I had an Amazon wishlist. While I appreciate the kindness and consideration, I would like to say that I don't need anything. There are, however, people who do -- especially now, since things have been so difficult for many people. Consider this a holiday PSA, but if you have money to spare, donate to charity or to women's and homeless shelters, Habitat for Humanity etc etc. The Hunger Site has a good list of various international charities that accept donations, and where as little as $15 can provide real help to people who need it, while Oxfam focuses on long-term local solutions to poverty and environmental degradation. Please suggest your favorite charities in comments and feel free to repost.

Friday, December 04, 2009

Launch My Line Reactions

I watched the premier of LML, and I can already say that this is going to be a favorite -- I would've called it a guilty pleasure if I felt guilt about TV. Anyway, I like clothes and fashion. Occasionally, I dream what it would be like to design sharply cut little jackets and tiered tanktops that drape like a dream and have wide straps. Then I snap out of it and go about my business -- that is, stuff I know something about.

Apparently, other people also have those daydreams, and some never snap out -- the whole concept of LML is to take ten aspiring fashion "designers" (who are in reality CEOs, DJs, event organizers, architects, fashion writers and critics etc etc) and, since they are not REALLY designers, pair them with someone who can make clothes ("experts"). The whole delightful mess is hosted by Dan and Dean Caten of Dsquared (whose clothes I deeply approve of)-- a rare case of what appears to be TWO (pleasantly) evil twins.

Hilarity started when the "designers" tried to conceptualize their lines. Most targeted the late teens-early twenties demographic, which always strikes me as counterintuitive. I mean, if one wants to sell clothes, wouldn't one go after the demographics with jobs and steady incomes? Really, how many eighteen-year-olds with trust funds are there? (A lot, apparently.) Some decided to target women "between late teens and early thirties". I hope they'll make both hot pants and knee-length skirts.

Then the episode offered some drama. My favorite was the CEO Marilyn who was very goal-oriented and upset when her 'expert' Coco who left the studio because she was tired. So Marilyn swore to work all night all by herself, but since she cannot actually, you know, sew or otherwise make clothes, she just redesigned the outfit (that is, doodled balloon sleeves on a cylinder), so that Coco had to make an entire new outfit when she came back in the morning.

And then there was the obligatory runway show and the final results, where both twins channeled Heidi (they are more amusing though). The choreographer who designed a little military jacket with the world's smallest and saddest coattails was booted off. I myself would've supported that decision, if it wasn't for the mid-calf jumpsuit, with its ill fitted bodice that resembled a giant foil heart. That thing was worse.

And the winner was a lovely asymmetrical silver charmeuse dress, nicely draped and classic. Good call there.

Another bit of the show I enjoyed a lot was when the "designers" started actually believing themselves to be designers and carried on about creativity and artistic vision. I'm amazed how little eye-rolling there was from the "experts" (the actual designers). I'm expecting an increase in snide remarks from them as the show progresses. Oh, I can't wait for episode 2!

Wednesday, December 02, 2009

Launch My Line

Yes yes, I know, yet another fashion show; of course I'll blog it. It starts tonight at 11 pm, and as teh name suggests it's about people launching their own clothing labels. Unlike The Fashion Show and Project Runway, however, this one promises to be hilariously awesome or hilariously horrifying or both. I base this judgment on the pictures from the show's premiere (via Jezebel)

First, SEQUINS!



And then there's gloves matching the boots:



And then there's this:



Lots more images at Jezebel. I can't wait!

Between Books

The reading at Between Books was lovely -- Greg (the owner of the bookstore) and Jeanne were wonderful hosts who fed us a delicious dinner before the reading. It was fantastic to see Jeff VanderMeer again and to hear him read and tell stories. The crowd was nice and friendly, and the bookstore is just awesome.



Also, there was a book cake!



How awesome is that thing???

And a few more pictures:



(Jeff and I signing)



(with our gracious hosts, Greg and Jeanne)



(Greg at the counter)



(Jeff, my husband Chris, and I -- with an amazing background of books.)

Monday, November 30, 2009

Readings this week

Jeff VanderMeer and myself will be reading tomorrow (Dec 1st) at Between Books, in Claymont DE at 7 pm -- details here.

On Thursday, December 3rd, Jeff Ford and I will be reading at the Eagle Theatre in Hammonton at 7:30 pm.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Fashion photography -- as it should be

I've been kind of over fashion magazines lately -- especially Vogue, which I used to love a lot a few years back. But now, the disconnect between the mags and the world had become jarring: fashion has been increasingly treated as aspirational rather than artistic, and I find the former a lot more difficult to stomach -- and so does most everyone who is not an eighteen-year-old millionaire, I would imagine. Anne Leibovitz, who has been responsible for so many of Vogue's photoshoots, is a genius, but despite that I have been dissatisfied with the US Vogue lately.

Until now. Leibovitz has produced a wonderful, terrifyingly grim and yet hilarious fairy tale themed photoshoot, a sort of twisted Hansel and Gretel (not that the original wasn't twisted, but you know what I mean). With Lady Gaga as a witch:



I find this one both charming and funny, as well as the rest of the pictures. I am especially taken with these two:



Yay tree-people!



And fish people (the latter, of course, reminds me of that Klee painting). In any case -- very well done, Vogue. Sure, the clothes are still ridiculously expensive, but I enjoy the playfulness and the creativity that went into these pictures. The composition is genius, and they remind me once again what fashion photography can (and ought to) be -- artistic expression, telling of tales, playful reminders that fashion (and clothes) is not about status or trends or any other foolishness. It's an artistic medium that inspires rather dictates, and elevates rather than demeans.

[This is via Haute Macabre. Check out the rest of the pictures there.]

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

WFA pictures

So WFA won by PAPER CITIES came in the mail today. It was adored:



And placed in its new surroundings, where it fit right in:



While Attila remained indifferent:




(She later woke up and attempted to eat a packing peanut. It was an exciting day for everyone.)

Sunday, November 08, 2009

Miscellaneous

1. I will be heading home for the holidays! Very excited about that -- we'll be in Moscow for two weeks, late December to early January.

2. This month, I'll be in NYC. NYC people, let me know what day would be good/if you want to get together for food.

3. PROJECT RUNWAY!!!! This week's inspiration: The Getty Center. Awesome architecture, art, vistas inspired not so awesome outfits.

After Christopher did his normal poor farmboy who was not given many opportunities blah blah speech, he suddenly decided that he's a weird and wacky guy. Then he made the same silhouette he made every darn week.

He was inspired by algae on the rock. Look, my undergraduate concentration was in Algology and Mycology, I love algae. They are beautiful:




This dress?



Doesn't do them justice. The top part would be ok if it wasn't the exact copy of his previous 'vampire bride' outfit. The green splotch is just weird. So Christopher cried and was finally kicked off. The only mystery was how did he hold on for so long.

Althea's outfit, inspired by the architecture of the Getty Center, was not very well made. Heidi called it a mess-fest, and she was not wrong:



But because she took a risk and based on her past performance, she was welcomed as one of the top three.

Meanwhile, Gordana got inspired by a Monet painting of a Gothic cathedral. Her dress was amazing:



Even Heidi had to agree, and the rest of the judges grudgingly admitted that yes, it was her best outfit yet. Did Gordana get to go to Bryant Park? Don't be silly, of course not. Nina Garcia thoughtfully said that she still didn't know who Gordana was as a designer. I suspect that Ms. Garcia's frequent absences had more to do with that than Gordana's style, and that those who watched the show know who she is as a designer -- she values simplicity and classic silhouettes that are lifted from being ordinary by their exquisite workmanship and amazing detailing. You would think that people in fashion industry would be able to recognize that.

Irina and Carol Hannah made nice dresses.

Irina:



Carol Hannah:



They both got to go to fashion week. I'm not unhappy about the final three, but I do feel bad for Gordana: along with being treated terribly for the entire season, she didn't get to go to Bryant Park even though her dress was clearly the best in the bunch.

Thursday, November 05, 2009

Brothers Grossbart

I was lucky enough to read THE SAD TALE OF THE BROTHER GROSSBART by Jesse Bullington back in September; now that the book is officially released, I would like to encourage everyone to buy a copy. It is actually very, very good.

As you might've heard, the book is bloody and grim, the protagonists have no redeeming qualities apart from their heretical and often hilarious theological views, and people get murdered left and right. This is not why this book is good, and not even because of its Terry Gilliam-esque Medieval mud and grime, although that one is delightful. I recommend it because it does such a wonderful job capturing that fevered worldview, apparently common in the Dark Ages, most familiar from works like Malleus Maleficarum -- the ease of coexistence between things quite mundane and the monsters so horrifying and obscene as to evoke paintings of Bosch and Bruegel the Elder. All of that against the backdrop of plague-ridden Medieval Europe, crime sprees and grave-robbing.

Another element I enjoyed quite a bit was the Brothers' complete lack of awareness that they are doing anything untoward -- in fact, they react to any resistance from their victims with a kind of hilarious hurt indignation, which I found spot-on and fascinating.

Of course, the book is not without some issues -- there were parts that dragged a bit for my taste, and I was displeased about the fate of the only interesting female character. Yes yes, I know, Medieval Europe was not the epicenter of racial and gender equality; still. On balance though, I find it easy to recommend this book -- it's a terrifying, visceral fantasy that does justice to the Medieval sensibilities and finds its roots in Thyl Ulenspiegel and Brothers Grimm more than in Terry Brooks and other bland, extruded feudal worship. It was named one of the Amazon's top ten SF books of the year, and I have to agree that its place is well-earned.

Wednesday, November 04, 2009

Upcoming Readings



On December 1st at Between Books bookstore in Claymont, Delaware, Jeff VanderMeer and myself will be doing a reading.

On December 3rd, Jeff Ford and me will be reading at The Eagle Theater in Hammonton, New Jersey at 7:30 pm. See the pattern? I tend to read in tandem with World Fantasy Award winners named Jeff.

Anyway, I hope folks in the area can make it to one or the other. The Eagle Theater charges an admission fee (I think $10), fair warning.

Sunday, November 01, 2009

World Fantasy Awards

We interrupt our regular Project Runway coverage to announce that Paper Cities (edited by yours truly) just won World Fantasy Award. To say I'm blown away would be an understatement.

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Oh, Project Runway, you're so crazy.

Fashion industry is not exactly the place for things like cultural sensitivity, respect for women, and common sense. Then there's the guest judge Nick Verreos. This dude, I hear, is an FDIM professor. Wow. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The challenge was to offer a complementary outfit to each of the designers' best looks -- for everyone but Logan, it meant winning looks. Logan realized that he never won a challenge, moped, created this:



and was promptly ridiculed, accused of plagiarism by Althea (who made a collar out of zippers for Christina Aguilera challenge), ridiculed some more by the judges, and sent home. He stayed on longer than I expected considering his consistent failure to make anything interesting.

Too bad they didn't send two people home, because Christopher's gown totally deserved it.



Leaving aside that this dress just got sick all over itself, it is the same damn silhouette he keeps sending out week after week: fitted top, bell skirt, with the side of his "I'm just a poor farmboy with no formal training and look at me, here competing with all these designers who hobnob with celebrities and know what "smocking" means" speech. Seriously, if he's not out next week, I'll have to blog about it indignantly.

Oh, Althea won with this:



Despite being accused of plagiarism by Irina who felt the wide-sleeve sweater was too close to her Aspen look. Because Irina invented wide-sleeve sweaters, apparently.

And speaking of Irina's Aspen look, this is the complementary look:



Not crazy about the dress, love the sweater. The guest judge, aforementioned Nick Verreos, loved the whole shebang -- at least I think he loved it and thought that his comment was a compliment. What he actually said was "this is something a Russian ex-model married to a millionaire would wear" and then during judging added something about "arm-candy". Apart from general misogyny, I found the ethnic aspect of this comment especially unpleasant, doubly so since it was directed to Irina, a woman of obvious Russian extraction. So thank you, Nick Verreos, for contributing to the stereotype of Russian women existing primarily to be trophy wives. Clearly young Eastern European women are not objectified enough.

But older Slavic women fare much worse: Gordana, who is a Bosnian Serb, has been treated horribly by the judges (especially Heidi) this entire season. Clearly, being middle-aged and Slavic are crimes in fashion industry than can be paid for only by frequent humiliation. Nick Verreos, good sport that he is, joined in the fun by calling her outfit something "an office worker in Warsaw, Poland" would wear. As a negative thing, even though I suspect that Nick is not personally familiar with Polish fashions, and for all he knows they might be quite snappy. But he went with the lazy (and dated) Soviet-era stereotype of a drab drone. He also apparently noticed that Gordana had a Slavic accent which he interpreted as Eastern Europe, but of course didn't bother to find out the country or the ethnicity or anything about the woman -- he just went for the laziest insult that jumped to mind. Well done, Professor.

Meanwhile, the jacket:



Notice the pleats and the seaming at the waist and the tailoring of the collar. I like the longer silhouette and the swooping hem, and the wonderful detailing. I wish the judges noticed the tailoring of this piece, but they were too busy thinking of ethnic slurs, apparently. I would love this jacket, with skinny pants and a bright top.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

More on Etsy

As promised, here's another installment on Etsy designers and sellers. There's definitely many good reasons to support independent designers and handmade products, from social justice, environmental, and political viewpoints. Of course, these are of little consolation unless these items are fashion-forward, good-looking, and affordable.

First, some shoutouts to some of the favorites I already blogged about:

1. One of my very favorites, Layla of Ledthread. Love her designs and her philosophy.

2. Idea2lifestyle -- always fanciful and inventive and flowing, natural materials and reasonable prices.

3. Weatherread -- structural and gorgeous. I'm so buying one of her shirt-jackets as soon as finances allow.

Now, on to some new loves:

1. Nanda. You can't find more beautiful and more affordable freshwater pearls. Gorgeous jewelry design too:



Simple, gorgeous, well-made, and under $20.

2. Morelle bags.

Check out this Morchella in purple suede:



It's a beauty, as well as other morelle's bags. Bonus: it's not a stupid status bag, but a functional art piece.

3. Artlab. Pricey? A tad. Everything in this store is AMAZING? Also yes.

For example, a scarf:



Or a shawl. Or a wrap. Whatever it is, it is cozy, adorable, and versatile.

And check out this jacket, made from a pair of pants:



I rest my case.

4. Vilte operates out of Lithuania, and creates exquisite beauty out of silk, wool, and bamboo fibers using unique felting process. I have one of her scarves, and it is the most beautiful accessory I own. Really truly.

Consider this:



The texture and the colors are just so rich, and the pictures really don't do them justice. It's much more breathtaking in person.

5. While on the subject of scarves, I should probably mention Flutter, a source for ruffles, buttons, and natural fibers.

And adorableness:



6. And to add some clothing to all these accessories, I'd like to mention Hier Apparel -- edgy, modern designs, very interesting sensibility. Look almost basic, but always with an interesting twist. Like this jacket -- check out the button collar!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Schmatta

Just watched the new HBO documentary on garment district, "Schmatta: From Rags to Riches to Rags". Very pleased with it, since it combines two of the things I'm keenly interested in -- fashion and history of organized labor. The film does an excellent job covering the beginnings of the garment district and its immigrant roots, the 1911 fire at the Triangle Shirtwaist Company that took lives of over 100 young women -- workers who were locked inside the factory -- and how that fire became a catalyst for organizing workers (especially women) of the Garment District. There's plenty of documentary footage -- from terrifying to uplifting, as the film deals with labor unions gaining strength and their role in the rise of the middle class of the New York City. Oh, the golden days of unions wielding real political clout! Children of early labor activists are so wistful when they talk about that time.

Then it gets depressing again, as we are shown gradual weakening of the unions and downright union busting by the Reagan administration, the export of jobs overseas, and the overall deregulation of market that resulted in even more losses in domestic jobs and rise in exploitative sweatshops overseas. It is shocking to see that in 1965 95% of clothing sold in the US was made in the US, and soon after 1993 ratification of NAFTA agreement by Clinton that number dropped to 50%. Now it's only 5%.

The documentary then touches on the issues with sweatshops, concluding with the fire in a textile factory near Dhaka, Bangladesh, that killed dozens of workers, most of whom were girls between 12 and 14 years of age. They were locked in the factory, in an eerie echo of the 1911 tragedy.

Another thing I found interesting is their commentary on disposable, cheap clothes produced by Forever 21, H&M etc. -- the idea that if people demand cheap clothing, there's just really no way for the American garment industry to recover, simply because it is impossible to pay minimum wage while making $10 dresses. Stronger unions and stricter market regulations, with limit on exporting jobs to the overseas, seems to be the key to recovery of the local industry -- but of course that would mean that Target and Walmart prices will become the thing of the past.

This is something I've been thinking about quite a bit -- I try to get a good chunk of my clothes from indie designers (which reminds me: I'm due for another Etsy post), since they are a) local and/or b)likely don't have a sweatshop. Yet, I'm not entirely ready to jettison all bargain retailers from my wardrobe (I don't have a lot, but a few) -- primarily because I don't feel that shifting all ethical responsibility to the individuals instead of governments is fair, and the admonishments to 'vote with your wallet' results in an unpleasant situation where every political decision is expressed via buying stuff, which I think largely misses the point. Still, I hope that the US government will take steps to bring manufacturing industries home, and then I won't mind paying a few bucks more for my shoes.

In other words, this documentary is highly recommended. It's playing on HBO (and On Demand).